However, I suspect that this is fairly ineffective because 1. That's exactly what you want inside cable housings. Popping the quick releases on brakes or frame attachments on gear cables, then dribbling chain lube along the inner it runs down into the outer works well on cables that are already installed and doesn't require re-adjusting anything afterwards.
Many outers are pre-greased these days, and the way to fake that if you get "Lubetube squirt" outers
Lubetube squirt a grease gun. A syringe will work at a pinch, but it Lubetube squirt to be a small one or the force needed to squirt grease into the tiny hole in the outer will be extremely high. Trying to manipulate grease into a cable outer any other way is frustrating and I find it ineffective I have tried! Using oil kind of works, but I find I need to re-oil the cables way too often.
Teflon coated cables work even better, and the combo of teflon cables and pre-greased outers or plastic-lined outers is amazing. As stated, modern teflon line outer cables do not require lubrication. These cables are often designated as being 2P-class cables.
Not all cables carry such an indication, "Lubetube squirt" inspection will quickly show if a liner is present. Lubetube squirt teflon liner is a thin, plastic layer inside the outer cable, often white or light blue. If you have older, or cheaper cables, without such a liner, lubrication is required. In an emergency however, lubrication can help to unstick these cables. It does more harm than good.
See also this related question. Buy a specific cable lubricant, which is designed for penetrating through the whole cable. If this is not
Lubetube squirt, any other light "Lubetube squirt" or grease will do. Cable lubrication is much easier using a specific cable lubricator. Lubetube squirt the lubricator with the large hole over the outer cable, the small hole over the inner cable. Tighten the screws gently! In general, you would want to lubricate from top to bottom, in order to have gravity help distribute the lube.
For brakes, always lubricate Bottom-Top, or completely detach the cable from the brake before lubricating. Without taking
Lubetube squirt cable all the way out of the housing, I'll shift to get as much slack Lubetube squirt I can in the cable so I can get the housing out of the stops my bike has slotted cable stops and put in a few drops and move the housing back and forth to get the lube distributed.
As has already been pointed out, good quality modern cables come already lubricated. However, if you must, how about one of these Lube Tube End Ferrules from a well-known cable manufacturer? Lube Tubes allows for quick application of oil directly onto the cable Special boots seals oil in the housing Lube greatly reduces friction for improved cable performance Replaces standard outer cable ferrules Simply pull back the rubber boot to reveal the lubricating pad.
Easy lubrication for your gear or brake cables For 5mm brake or 4. I have worked lube into "difficult" cables by unhooking one end, working a piece of "rubber" hose over the end actually two pieces, a short piece of small diameter and a larger piece several inches long, one within the other.
Put a small spiral hose clamp around this assembly. Use a bike stand with a rotating head to get the cable end pointing up, then spray lube into hose.
You can generally wait for gravity to the work the lube into the cable, but if the hose is long enough you can grab the end and squeeze the lube into the cable with your fingers.
I should also note that, when confronted with a rusty cable, I will first give "Lubetube squirt" cable a treatment with "oxalic acid" solution available from paint stores as a type of "wood bleach"trickling it into the cable the same way one would do the lube but before any lube. This, to a degree, dissolves rust, will often free up a "frozen" cable, and makes "so-so" cables move much more smoothly. Of course, one should follow up with regular lube.
Motorcyclists face the same problem and the same question. While discussion is often hot and opinions are divided, I advocate oiling, as advises a man, whom I Lubetube squirt, with Lubetube squirt of servicing several drivig school motorcycles. I lubricate the clutch cable in school motorcycles weekly, which prolongs the life and improves ride comfort. For the lubrication I bought device allowing use sprays containing eg. Lubetube squirt, I've copied once in a mechanic sensational patent: I solder quite accurately cable section Lubetube squirt 0.
It's to avoid abrasion and "Lubetube squirt" off. Note that the cable breaks usually at the barrel I have not seen other cases by the rotation of the barrel Lubetube squirt the handle at which it rubs. There is special device available: I have them lubricated at the annual tune up.
If they go bad I simply have the shop put new ones on. My free time is too important and valuable to me to waste for such nonsense. I spend it in getting educated and working. Therefore I have the money and spend it to have other people doing work for me. Thank you for your interest in this question.
Because it has attracted low-quality or spam answers that had to be removed, posting an answer
Lubetube squirt requires 10 reputation on this site the association bonus does not count. Would you like to answer one of these unanswered questions instead? Questions Tags Users Badges Unanswered. How to lubricate cables? So what is a good way of doing this?
Kate Gregory 3 Phillip Ngan 3 8 From my experience non-lubricated cables better in the long run. Lubricated ones feel somewhat better when just lubricated but tend to accumulate dust "Lubetube squirt" eventually get stuck which never Lubetube squirt to non-lubricated ones.
Spray lube is the way I and several good bike mechanics I know Lubetube squirt, but there are better lubes than WD You generally want something with Teflon. For older and rusted cables I like triflow with teflon. And it has a pleasant banana odor. You have to work very slowly. You put one drop after the other of very fluid oil on the cable were it comes out of the housing. Through capillarity the oil gets sucked up into the housing. Meaning you'll do this from both ends of the housing.
Another chain lube user here - I use Dry lube, not Wet, pull the cable housing as far one way as it will go, drop or two of lube in the other end, and then work the housing back and forth on the cable. Then push the housing the other direction and do the same thing.
So, if you Lubetube squirt modern cables, I'd probably avoid lubricating the cables period. According to the MSDS it contains "petroleum base oil". Not a lot of it, but it's there. You can see it. Spray the stuff on a surface, let it evaporate and there is a film of oil.
This oil is not suitable for every purpose; it works in those situations that call for a light machine oil. There is also no mention of any useful additives anti-rust, anti-wear. So it's not a great lubricant and its claims of being general-purpose greatly overstated; but it's a lie to deny that it's a lubricant. Glenn Gervais 4, 2 23 This is something generic put into a container which is "Lubetube squirt" as being Lubetube squirt specifically for non-coated cables.
The idea that you need a myriad of separate lubes for every conceivable purpose is just clever marketing. I've never seen that kit -- is it just used temporarily while lubing or does it permanently replace the ferrules? I have been able to craft my own lube injectors using bits of rubber hose and some hose clamps. But I don't think those have been made for a while. Daniel R Hicks Comments when downvote is appreciated.
by 4 Comments. dating in new jersey fuck me raw download anna nicole. Horny Guy Fucking Squirter Wife · Homemade Wife Plays Whilst I M At Work Pillow Hump Orgasm Homemade Wife Plays Whilst I M At Work Pillow Hump.